Kalina Surfs

Feelings while Surfing

Feelings while Surfing

In Smiling People I interview people with interesting life concepts (Stay tuned for the first release on next Friday (4th Oct) . One question I ask is “What feeling do you like most about surfing?”. Because I think there is an almost poetic feeling to it, I want to take the time to give an impression on how I feel while surfing.

Sunrise over dunes of St Girons, France

In the morning I walk along the sand and feel the cold everywhere. I’m happy I made it into the still moist wetsuit, on the other hand I hate myself for it. It is so cold. I hear the waves breaking, like they are looking to find my bones. I can’t see the sun behind the dunes yet, and I just miss my bed. On the edge of the water I bend down to put on my leash, the sound of velcro rips through the morning air. The first water touches my toes. Damn, it is so cold. I force myself to walk into the water, motivated by the person that just surfed a wave right in front of me. The wetsuit protects me from the cold water at first and I take a deep breath. A few moments later the first big wave hits me in stomach. I lay on the board to start paddeling out, the water pulls through my fingers, my arms tell me I should be in bed. I dive under the next wave. As I open my eyes underneath I can see the white strings from the water rushing over me. I get spit out to the surface and take another breath. I’m awake.

I start paddling almost at full speed towards the next already broken wave, that waits with one meter of white water me. I dive down again. I look around and see nothing but water with foamlayer on top, from the already broken waves around me. Another duck dive. My arms start hurting, but I know I have to paddle. I try to synchronize my breathing to my paddling. Another duck dive, that pulls me back the distance, that I just paddled. The cold has gotten through my wetsuit and my motivation shrinks. It feels like I shouldn’t be out there. After the next duck dive I can feel the spray, the little bits of water hit me, as the wave brakes behind me. I made it.

I position myself between the other surfers and sit up on my board. I can feel the wind, the water is playing around my legs and the sun made it over the dune. The other surfers look content, that they in the water, we all feel the same, but everybody is listening to nature. The waves are making moving hills in front of me and I start reading them, estimating where they are going to break. I sit for a while and then I see one. It builds up and it looks like it is going to destroy me – Perfect. I turn around quickly, start to paddle, put my chin and shoulders down to get weight to the front of my board. My arms stroke deep under my board and I go full power. I feel the wave pulling me back and building up like it wants to breath in air. One more paddle and I press my hands down and jump up.

Photo by Hoppe

I’m not thinking anymore I’m flowing, almost flying over the face of the wave. My moves feel at peace while I hear the brutal sound right behind me. I look up to the comb of the wave and go up to it. I look back to the wave, apply pressure with my back foot and drive back to the part that breaking. I flow for two second longer, and then the wave breaks in front of me as well. I stand for a moment and then I let myself fall in the water.

Photo by Hoppe

My legs are over me, my body gets pulled into every direction. I don’t fight the washing machine to keep my energy. The wave rolls on and I start to figure out where the surface is and swim up, while cover my head. I scramble to get on my board. Smiling involuntarily I paddle again to duck dive. It was worth it and I want to do it again.

Even though surfing in Europe is rough and the waves aren’t as consistent, I love it because it feels raw and unpolished, like you have to form a relationship with the force of nature. This year I was lucky to go to Sri Lanka for 1.5 months where the actual surfing feels the same, but the surroundings are very different to France or Spain. Below are pictures of better waves from the area of Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka.

Photo by Ahamed Irfan
Photo by Leandro Filippin
Photo by Ahamed Irfan
Share on facebook
Facebook
Share on google
Google+
Share on twitter
Twitter
Share on linkedin
LinkedIn
Share on pinterest
Pinterest

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

What would you like to read about next?

1 year Revision

I’ve been writing this blog every other week for one year, so it’s time to revisit my goal with this platform.

One year ago, I had just gotten into the topic of communal living on a greater scheme than a flat share. My primary motivation for starting my own project, was that there are almost no recources on communal living out there, that describe the personal experiences from people and real life evaluations on how to make it work. Just a page, that tells you whether or not it’s cool to be there.

At the time I was living in my first self converted car, travelling between France and Spain, I went surfing every day, was inspired by people on the way, that were choosing to live life outside a 9 to 5 job. So I wrote about them as well.

When winter arrived in Europe I flew to Latinamerica with an open end ticket. Next to spanish, I learned amazing, but also cruel things from the people and their history in Costa Rica, Panama and Colombia. I got by, by creating websites for small business or working for food and accomodation along the way and wasn’t planning on stopping the trip any time soon.

Then Corona started in March, and along with most peoples lives, mine changed as well. Feeling grateful for the ability to do so, I flew back to Germany, to safety, health care and my home. Upon arriving I needed to figure out what to do all over again.

I knew that I want to be by the seaside to surf, the one thing Germany can’t offer. And that I want to continue to put myself to new environments, while keeping Infectionrates in mind and not sit in crowded buses all the time. I knew that I needed to continue to work on my computer and pick up my studies of IT again, so I looked for a car with standing height to build a home on the road.

In July I started my van conversion process with no prior knowledge of the topic and a severe underestimate of the time it was going to take me. Now it is mid September and the build is slowly coming to an end. I’m finally able to make a list of the things, that need to get done, with out writing a entire bullet point book.

But as my time and mind and also my dreams ( I once dreamt that I had a specific hinge, that I have never owned) were consumed by the van conversion, I strained further from my original goal of making communities more accesible by writing about it and sparking conversations around them and introducing interesting life concepts and inspiring people.

This week I had planned to post a video on building and a sliding bed (which is really cool), but as I was cutting the video, I realized, that this is not what I want to be on this blog, but it’s on my youtube channel where I’ll continue to update you on my van covnersion.

And even though we all have the same amount of hours in a day as Beyoncé, I’m realizing that I don’t have the time to post bi-weekly at the moment. However, as soon as I’m back on the road, I’m planning pick up the digital pen again.

Have a nice weekend and stay hydrated,

Kalina

Read More »

Floor & Insulation

Today I would love to publish a post about surfing and community, but I’m still in the progress of manifesting what I’m dreaming of: Living in my van full time, working online and surfing everyday, preferably in Portugal.

So far, the floor and the insulation are installed and the video is ‘fresh out of the press’. Please enjoy!

Read More »

The Great Van Unshelving

So, you might have read which van I bought and why, or you might have read what I’m planning as my layout, but here comes the unpolished truth of starting the van conversion and getting out the orignial shelving of my DHL Truck:

Read More »

Preparing for Vanlife

Already 1 month ago I bought a beautiful DHL Truck. This Box Van has 6.5 m2 floor space, so plenty for a millenial that lives

Read More »

Surfskating in Friedrichshain, Berlin

But, as a Berliner, I decided to check out some more place in Friedrichshain, the suburb I used to go to school to, with my Surfskate and shoot an homage to the ‘Plattenbauromantik’, ‘Zuckerbauten’ and of course it can’t be missed: the ‘Tram’.

Read More »
Return to top of page